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The steep, crowded and confusing streets around Waverley Station house a surprisingly large cluster of venues and galleries. Part of the puzzle's how to get here: from Princes Street, head straight down Waverley Bridge (where the tourist buses hang out), while the easiest access from the Royal Mile is down Cockburn Street, opposite the Old Town Information Centre at the Tron.

In the shadow of the North Bridge, which lifts the main road south from Princes Street high above the station, two upmarket art galleries face each other across Market Street - the council's City Art Centre, and the private Fruitmarket Gallery. Not far away, Cockburn Street meanders up to the Royal Mile past Stills, the small gallery at the very centre of the Edinburgh Art Festival.

Crossing under the bridge, the road climbs upwards to reconnect with the Royal Mile at Canongate - but not before you've passed the much-discussed Venue 45, with its one-room offshoot, The Space @ Jury's Inn, also close at hand.