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The Christmas markets

Market stallGerman market until 24 December.  Highland market until 4 January, except Christmas Day.  10am – 8pm (10pm Thursday, Friday and Saturday; 6pm Christmas Eve, New Year's Eve)

Princes Street Gardens, base of The Mound

Free admission. Just turn up!

At the base of the Mound, next to the Royal Scottish Academy, you'll find Edinburgh's two traditional Christmas Markets. One's a genuine import from Germany; the other's from the Highlands here at home, and both offer a mix of unusual gifts and truly irresistible food. The German market, in particular, is a great place to gather for mulled wine and tasty hot treats on a chilly winter night.

German Christmas Market

Tight-packed, bustling and homely, the timeless German Market is the very definition of good Christmas cheer. Whether gift-hunting, house-dressing or just in search of a snack, the market's pretty wooden stalls always turn up the goods. And the whole thing's authentically Deutsch - it closes early on Christmas Eve so the traders can fly home to their families.

Be warned, though: you're unlikely to leave with your wallet untouched. For your home, there are quaint wooden decorations and gorgeous ceramic candle houses. For those hard-to-buy-for relatives, try the quirky, lovable metal figurines. Bored of the same old Christmas cake? Pick up some genuine German Stollen. With each of 20-odd stalls selling a different type of goods, you can while away a happy hour or more in shameless seasonal browsing.

   
 

Making the most of the Christmas Markets

Go after dark. It's just more Christmassy that way

But don't leave it too late, since the whole place closes down at 8pm (or 10pm on Thursday, Friday and Saturday)

Don't forget the food stalls. They do get busy, but they're very efficient and the queues move quickly

 
   
And indeed, much of the delight of the German market lies simply in being there. Surrender to the comforting homeliness, the fairy lights everywhere and the cheerful banter of the stallholders, and you'll find yourself transported for a while to a different, better world. Even the press of people on a busy day seems only to boost that convivial cosiness the Germans call gemutlichkeit.

Eating and drinking: Alongside the Christmas trinkets, the German market thrives on its wide range of food stalls. There are, it goes without saying, many types of sausage; the more adventurous could try Bratkartoffeln (fried potatoes and bacon, served with a herby sauce) or, of course, Sauerkraut.  On the liquid side there's a small bar selling German beer, but the most popular stall of all is the one with the Gluhwein: mulled wine with schnapps, the perfect way to unwind with friends on a crisp winter's day.

The Highland Village Market

Go through the gate into the gardens, towards the Christmas wheel, to find the city's second Christmas market - this time a slightly-tenuous recreation of a Scottish Highland village, arranged around a spacious central "square".

Perhaps understandably, the newer zone hasn't yet achieved the atmosphere or coherence of its German neighbour. Still, it's a chilled-out place to mooch around: the emphasis is on local crafts, with knitwear, jewellery and glassware among the treats on offer. 

Eating and Drinking: In the heart of the market, the Highland theme continues with "stag" (venison) burgers from local favourites Well Hung and Tender - or for a lighter snack, you could do a lot worse than visit the cheese toastie stall.  Hunt out the hot mead for an unusual departure from the usual mulled wine.

The Big Wheel and Fair >>

Edinburgh 2011

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