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A walk east along the High Street brings you to the Canongate. Historically a separate burgh outside Edinburgh's walls, the Canongate's now very much part of the city: a jumble of pubs, restaurants and browser-friendly specialist stores crowd around the narrow closes on either side of the street. Canongate Kirk, which hosts classical music on the Fringe, is one of the landmarks, while smaller Venue 13 and the Bongo Club aren't far away.

At the end of the Canongate, the prim royal palace of Holyroodhouse sits uneasily opposite the modern Scottish Parliament. Inside the palace, the Queen's Gallery is fast becoming one of Edinburgh's foremost private exhibition spaces; the parliament, meanwhile, is home to the brief annual Festival of Politics.

Past the parliament, the Canongate opens out into Holyrood Park. Formed around Arthur's Seat - Edinburgh's unique inner-city extinct volcano - the park's rugged pathways present a leg-stretching challenge for even experienced walkers. The summit of Arthur's Seat, crowded on any day of the year, offers an incomparable vista over Edinburgh and the countryside beyond; for a gentler work-out, stay below the crags and admire the views while walking the Radical Road.