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From a hodge-podge of junctions at the end of Princes Street, Leith Walk strikes out north-east in a beeline for the coast. The main link from Edinburgh to the port of Leith, the road's congested, noisy and - if you're following it all the way - surprisingly long. Happily for those short on shoe-leather, the Festival attractions are mostly crowded at the Edinburgh end.

The Playhouse, by a long chalk Edinburgh's largest theatre, is the first great cultural landmark, its once-grand entrance now upstaged by a neighbouring leisure centre. A few steps along the road bring you to Valvona & Crolla - part art house, part tourist attraction, but mostly a delicatessen - while opposite, beyond the lawn of Gayfield Square, lies a small but rewarding cluster of galleries.